I've been home already for more than 2 weeks. I managed to live through illness (caught some nasty virus/flu), got back to work in a new wonderful office, were thrown right back in to fight with the construction people at my apartment and started a full new season pretty much the same week. So lots has been going on, hence the delay with the summary and final word. Majority of people have also requested a short version and overview of my trip - i'll be preparing that within weeks as well.
Things I will not miss:
- all the ugly snorting noises they make right before spitting, spitting by the way takes place everywhere. there are "no-spitting on the floor" signs up, but then they find bottles or other containers so they will still go through with the whole procedure only it will not land on the floor.
- all the ugly noises they make when eating, they eat with their mouth open and that is not helping with appetite at all
- extremely awful smells all over the place, well mainly on the streets, but also in certain eating areas and other public places. smell would be produced of rotten foods laying around in blazing sun or people using walls instead of toilets or general pollution in all its "wonderful" formats. in short: it is dirty-dirty-dirty there, just filthy :(
- the difference in manners in general, understanding on what is polite and what is not is so very different from Europe/Americas and other places I've been at. I can't see myself getting used to that, I try to understand, but it does not come easily.
- their inability to stand in line. such a common sense thing for the rest of the world, but not for Chinese people - strangest thing :)
Other things that I sorta enjoyed for a short period of time and someday when I get to experience them again I'll get this wonderful feeling of recognition:
- walking in the heat, having very high moisture percentage, there is no breeze and you are soaked from head to toe basically immediately. that was kinda neat :) I've never experienced anything like that before.
- explaining something for another person who does not speak any language that you do, so there is no common language, neither of you understands the other person. but after some mutual drawing, pointing on the map, saying words in English very slowly, looking up some similar phrases in the travel guide and reading facial expressions it all gets magically figured out :) seriously, this was amazing how the understanding always somehow appeared. true, more than once we were actually guided to a wrong direction :) but generally we were able to understand each other somehow, usually it took extremely long time - but it did happen.
- unexpectedness. as the American guy in Shanghai said: everything that can go wrong will go wrong in China in the worst possible way one can imagine. and he was definitely right. it adds this magical not-knowingness, can give you nightmares, but that is part of the thrill.
Now are the things I will miss for sure:
- experiencing rapid growth and change. it was visible everywhere in China and even in Vietnam, but in smaller quantities there. rapid growth in China stuck out most for me in big cities, things happen fast there.
- Hong Kong area. it was great, it was absolutely great. in Hong Kong I had the feeling that this is where everything happens, this is the center of the world and if you are not here you are nowhere at all. it was just so busy and multi-cultural, experiencing the vibes there just blew my mind. I want to return there and be part of it.
- nature of Vietnam: Halong Bay and Sapa were wonderful. I have heard great stories about beaches in Hue and further south - I'm sure I can't even imagine the beauty there.
- I have to say the food :) I liked the kitchen there, even more than in Peru - I think. Food was generally very good, variety was huge and it was mostly good and very enjoyable.
Compared to Peru - China and Vietnam are a lot safer for travellers. Apparently the charges are very harsh and there consequences are bad for your whole family - I got the impression that there is not that much crime around.
Education system seems to be quite a bit different in China (I don't know the story of Vietnam in that matter). Students are taught to remember facts and "think" alike (which means to think like majority does and not think like individuals, or at least it is not suggested to stand out with your own ideas).
Infrastructure was kinda impressive to me in China. For such a huge country it worked without delays or any major hassles, it was organized quite well and seemed to go like clockwork. I hope they get Maglev going longer distances soon enough :)
Allright, that is pretty much it for a short summary. Any questions are more than welcome and will be answered within.. umm.. say a week :)
Showing posts with label 2008. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2008. Show all posts
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
History lesson - Vietnam
Here comes a "short" Vietnam history overview. Anyhoo, I went to the web and did some research, lots of information was also in Lonely Planet. First of all I was determined to understand the reasons and political conflicts around the American war in Vietnam. Here is what I discovered, early times are not covered very thoroughly, later times are written in greater detail.
This is also time for a DISCLAIMER: do not quote me on this information, this is just an attempt to organize the information and create a timeline for myself. If I'm terribly mistaken about something then please do let me know.
Vietnam was under Chinese domination for 1000 years. It started on the 2nd century BC when Chinese conquered the Red River Delta and ended 938 AD with the battle of Bach Dang River. Vietnamese independence followed seeing many enlightened emperors. On the early 15th century Chinese seized control again, although 1428 Vietnam saw liberation with Le Loi's victory over Chinese.
Year 1516 first Portuguese sailors arrived and were soon followed by Dominican missionaries. For 2 centuries Vietnam was divided between north where Trinh ruled (supported by Portuguese) and south where Nguyen Lords ruled (supported by Dutch). At some point Vietnamese expanded to Cambodia and Laos as well.
And now we get into the later history of 19th and 20th century. 1847 French Navy attacked Vietnam in response to Emperor Thieu Tri's suppression of Catholic missionaries, finally treaty was signed and 3 eastern provinces were given to French. 1872 French started to conquer other northern parts of Vietnam as well and by 1887 they had colonized the country.
Ho Chi Minh founded the first Marxist grouping in Indochina in 1925, then came Vietnamese Communist Party year 1930 and year 1941 followed League for the Independence of Vietnam aka Viet Minh that was dominated by Ho's communists. During WWII Vietnam fell under Japan, but they let French carry on their ruling there and did not intervene. The only forces opposed to both Japanese and French occupation was Viet Minh and Ho Chi Minh, apparently they both got US assistance during that period. By 1945 Viet Minh controlled large parts of the country.
1946 the war with French started again. Ho Chi Minh fled to the mountains and stayed there for 8 years but even despite the massive US support that French received there was no victory and French troops surrendered. In May 1954, as per Geneva Conference, war prisoners were exchanged and Vietnam was temporarily divided into 2 zones. So it became so that south was ruled by fiercely anticommunist Catholic Ngo Dinh Diem and north was ruled by Democratic Republic of Vietnam. By 1959 north and south were at war again.
Now comes the ever so sensitive topic - American war in Vietnam. Topic that is not discussed over dinner table in the US. I can't remember anything on the matter in our history books - how was it portrayed to us during Russian time?
So here we go. The Americans saw France's colonial war in Indochina as an important part of a worldwide struggle against communist expansion. As I understand there were Vietnamese communists or VC's in the north as well as North Vietnamese army. First was more like a rebellion grouping, second was official army of the northern state of Vietnam. In the south there was Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN). Northern forces were trying to overtake south where French were ruling.
So Americans figured to come and assist the French. Americans would stay in Vietnam for the next 25 years, first as advisers and later as the main force. In August 1964 two US destroyers claimed to have come under 'unprovoked' attack near North Vietnamese coast. As a result - US President orders bombs to be dropped on North Vietnam. First US troops landed in Vietnam in March of 1965. So there were battles between American forces and Vietnamese communists or VC. January 1968 VC's held strikes in 100 cities around Vietnam and took over US embassy courtyard in Saigon. US counterattacked aggressively by bombing heavily populated cities. US aggressiveness traumatized the civilian world, many local civilians would join VC in anger. All the horror of the bombings, chaos, massacres and attacks on unarmed civilians by American troops - it was broadcasted all over the world and world started antiwar activities and movements.
Meanwhile power changed in US, peace talks were held with the north, all the while the war got even bigger in Vietnam. US started secretly bombing Cambodia in order to flush out VC sanctuaries across the border, Northern Vietnamese forces moved deeper into Cambodia. There were more attacks in Northern Vietnam and on the 17th parallel as well. Austria, New Zealand, South Korea, Philippines and Thailand sent military personnel to South Vietnam to fight with Americans. north Vietnam was supported by China and Soviet Republic.
In January 1973 Paris Peace Accords were signed between USA, North Vietnam, South Vietnam and VC - agreeing on cease fire, withdrawal of US forces and release of US prisoners of war. As it turns out, throughout the whole conflict US never actually declared war on North Vietnam. Bombing of north stopped and US prisoners were released, but the war went on, only now South Vietnam was fighting North on its own, ARVN troops surrendered and fled quickly since they were not able to continue without all the support.
After taking over South Vietnam, the communists renamed Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City. Years of changes followed: transition to socialism in South, widespread political repression, cruel imprisonment of people who had ties to previous regime, intellectuals/artists/businesspeople who had opposed the North were pestered and held in horrendous conditions and so on and so on.
When south collapsed, more than 100 000 Vietnamese fled the country. In the next five years about half a million others would follow. By now many have returned, having foreign education they are now helping in driving the economy forward. This is believed by many to be the reason why South Vietnam economy is doing better nowadays. As it goes, the people are divided in their hears as well - north has never forgiven south in co-operating with Americans against their own people and south has never forgiven north in imposing communism and pestering hundreds of thousands Vietnamese.
Vietnam is socialist republic, Hanoi is the capital and population is 86 million people.
Also check Peeter's comment on the history - Vietnami ajaloo kokkuvõte
This is also time for a DISCLAIMER: do not quote me on this information, this is just an attempt to organize the information and create a timeline for myself. If I'm terribly mistaken about something then please do let me know.
Vietnam was under Chinese domination for 1000 years. It started on the 2nd century BC when Chinese conquered the Red River Delta and ended 938 AD with the battle of Bach Dang River. Vietnamese independence followed seeing many enlightened emperors. On the early 15th century Chinese seized control again, although 1428 Vietnam saw liberation with Le Loi's victory over Chinese.
Year 1516 first Portuguese sailors arrived and were soon followed by Dominican missionaries. For 2 centuries Vietnam was divided between north where Trinh ruled (supported by Portuguese) and south where Nguyen Lords ruled (supported by Dutch). At some point Vietnamese expanded to Cambodia and Laos as well.
And now we get into the later history of 19th and 20th century. 1847 French Navy attacked Vietnam in response to Emperor Thieu Tri's suppression of Catholic missionaries, finally treaty was signed and 3 eastern provinces were given to French. 1872 French started to conquer other northern parts of Vietnam as well and by 1887 they had colonized the country.
Ho Chi Minh founded the first Marxist grouping in Indochina in 1925, then came Vietnamese Communist Party year 1930 and year 1941 followed League for the Independence of Vietnam aka Viet Minh that was dominated by Ho's communists. During WWII Vietnam fell under Japan, but they let French carry on their ruling there and did not intervene. The only forces opposed to both Japanese and French occupation was Viet Minh and Ho Chi Minh, apparently they both got US assistance during that period. By 1945 Viet Minh controlled large parts of the country.
1946 the war with French started again. Ho Chi Minh fled to the mountains and stayed there for 8 years but even despite the massive US support that French received there was no victory and French troops surrendered. In May 1954, as per Geneva Conference, war prisoners were exchanged and Vietnam was temporarily divided into 2 zones. So it became so that south was ruled by fiercely anticommunist Catholic Ngo Dinh Diem and north was ruled by Democratic Republic of Vietnam. By 1959 north and south were at war again.
Now comes the ever so sensitive topic - American war in Vietnam. Topic that is not discussed over dinner table in the US. I can't remember anything on the matter in our history books - how was it portrayed to us during Russian time?
So here we go. The Americans saw France's colonial war in Indochina as an important part of a worldwide struggle against communist expansion. As I understand there were Vietnamese communists or VC's in the north as well as North Vietnamese army. First was more like a rebellion grouping, second was official army of the northern state of Vietnam. In the south there was Army of the Republic of Vietnam (ARVN). Northern forces were trying to overtake south where French were ruling.
So Americans figured to come and assist the French. Americans would stay in Vietnam for the next 25 years, first as advisers and later as the main force. In August 1964 two US destroyers claimed to have come under 'unprovoked' attack near North Vietnamese coast. As a result - US President orders bombs to be dropped on North Vietnam. First US troops landed in Vietnam in March of 1965. So there were battles between American forces and Vietnamese communists or VC. January 1968 VC's held strikes in 100 cities around Vietnam and took over US embassy courtyard in Saigon. US counterattacked aggressively by bombing heavily populated cities. US aggressiveness traumatized the civilian world, many local civilians would join VC in anger. All the horror of the bombings, chaos, massacres and attacks on unarmed civilians by American troops - it was broadcasted all over the world and world started antiwar activities and movements.
Meanwhile power changed in US, peace talks were held with the north, all the while the war got even bigger in Vietnam. US started secretly bombing Cambodia in order to flush out VC sanctuaries across the border, Northern Vietnamese forces moved deeper into Cambodia. There were more attacks in Northern Vietnam and on the 17th parallel as well. Austria, New Zealand, South Korea, Philippines and Thailand sent military personnel to South Vietnam to fight with Americans. north Vietnam was supported by China and Soviet Republic.
In January 1973 Paris Peace Accords were signed between USA, North Vietnam, South Vietnam and VC - agreeing on cease fire, withdrawal of US forces and release of US prisoners of war. As it turns out, throughout the whole conflict US never actually declared war on North Vietnam. Bombing of north stopped and US prisoners were released, but the war went on, only now South Vietnam was fighting North on its own, ARVN troops surrendered and fled quickly since they were not able to continue without all the support.
After taking over South Vietnam, the communists renamed Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City. Years of changes followed: transition to socialism in South, widespread political repression, cruel imprisonment of people who had ties to previous regime, intellectuals/artists/businesspeople who had opposed the North were pestered and held in horrendous conditions and so on and so on.
When south collapsed, more than 100 000 Vietnamese fled the country. In the next five years about half a million others would follow. By now many have returned, having foreign education they are now helping in driving the economy forward. This is believed by many to be the reason why South Vietnam economy is doing better nowadays. As it goes, the people are divided in their hears as well - north has never forgiven south in co-operating with Americans against their own people and south has never forgiven north in imposing communism and pestering hundreds of thousands Vietnamese.
Vietnam is socialist republic, Hanoi is the capital and population is 86 million people.
Also check Peeter's comment on the history - Vietnami ajaloo kokkuvõte
Sunday, September 28, 2008
day 40 - home sweet sweet home - 25.09
There were no problems with check in to the flight to Helsinki. There was a minor delay though, but only for 20 minutes, so no biggie. Flight was nice and smooth and they fed us twice :) The best part though was the fact that each seat had its own TV's and the entertainment program was quite extensive. I watched 3 movies, played some games and wathced 2 TV shows :D That is the way all long flights should be. And oh the joy when I got to pick up Finnish newspaper, and oh the joy when the person next to me ate his meals silently without slurping and loud munching, and oh the joy of returning home - that has always been my favourite part.
We arrived to Helsinki in time and I had 1 hour till my connecting flight to Tallinn. My next flight was fully booked and it had open seating arrangement. I've never seen open seating on an airplane before :)
I must say it is so great to return home.
There will be short history lesson and general summary coming up shortly, so stay tuned for a bit longer.
We arrived to Helsinki in time and I had 1 hour till my connecting flight to Tallinn. My next flight was fully booked and it had open seating arrangement. I've never seen open seating on an airplane before :)
I must say it is so great to return home.
There will be short history lesson and general summary coming up shortly, so stay tuned for a bit longer.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
day 39 - desperately trying to get home - 24.09
Finally the morning came, I had not gotten much sleep and I would have killed for shower by now. Eleven o'clock flight check in should have started at 9, I get there and the news is that the weather is sill bad and more news to follow at 10. 10 rolls around and they ask me to stay in line after I have tried to explain them that I'm standby. Allright so I go and stand in the line as instructed, after standing in line for an hour they inform me that as I'm standby I need to wait till everybody is checked in and then go to the counter. Aaagh - so now you tell me that. Last person checked in at 11:23, so I rush to the line - there are still 3 people in front of me and 2 behind me when they announce that the counter is closed as the time is way past the departure time. Ou I wanted to scream. The line was moving so slow and it seemed that half of the check in ladies had no idea what they were doing as one of the managers was running between them all the time. So I asked them whose fault it is that they were not able to check everybody in in time - aaaargh, ridiculous.
Then they inform the last 6 poor souls that the weather is still bad and the whole flight might get canceled anyways so we should just wait. So we wait. All this waiting is so tiring and nerve wrecking. An hour later they still start to check us in. We are all standbys and luckily we all get on the plane.
Plane ride to Hong Kong was very bumpy, once we get above the city our pilot informs us that the traffic is very busy and we will be landing in one hour - so whole extra hour of circling in the air above the city, fun huh? Luckily 30 minutes later he announced that we will be landing shortly. The landing though was one of the worst ones I've experienced ever. During landing there was looots of free falling and then lots of shaking. At some point the plane was in free fall and at the same time shook so heavily that I was sure it would snap in half soon. My heart rate jumped to 200 for quite some time :) And the landing took forever! But we made it. Once we landed the plane I was the skies in the distance - it was all dark gray and looked evil, winds were strong as well and it was raining, I guess the severe weather has not yet passed.
Yeh. So I was in Hong Kong finally. I have learned by now to check everything twice and then one more time and then cross check again just in case. So I found the Finnair counter and asked them to review my booking for tomorrow. The guy sits and stares at the computer for the longest time with a puzzled face. Finally he informs me that there is a booking, but it is not confirmed. So I ask him to confirm it (whatever it means) and he tells me that it is not possible, because my ticket is not valid anymore. My ticket was unchangeable one and it was with yesterdays date. Oh uh. So I ask him for advice of what I should do now, he suggests me to turn to Vietnam Airlines as they are responsible for that. And the whole time I don't really understand how can I have a half made booking without a ticket :) As he gets tired of trying to explain me the complicated ticketing system of the airlines he makes some phone calls and stares at the computer screen and then announces that all is good for my check in tomorrow morning. Ahum, snap and all ready? I'm a bit skeptical, but I don't have any strength nor will to argue with anybody anymore. So I give up, we'll see tomorrow morning what will happen.
Now I just want to munch on the chocolate I bought and rest for a bit. I'm so sad that I'll be missing a whole day of my vacation, it was planned for getting many things arranged before heading to work, won't happen now :( I guess I need to sacrifice my weekend for the tasks now :(
Then they inform the last 6 poor souls that the weather is still bad and the whole flight might get canceled anyways so we should just wait. So we wait. All this waiting is so tiring and nerve wrecking. An hour later they still start to check us in. We are all standbys and luckily we all get on the plane.
Plane ride to Hong Kong was very bumpy, once we get above the city our pilot informs us that the traffic is very busy and we will be landing in one hour - so whole extra hour of circling in the air above the city, fun huh? Luckily 30 minutes later he announced that we will be landing shortly. The landing though was one of the worst ones I've experienced ever. During landing there was looots of free falling and then lots of shaking. At some point the plane was in free fall and at the same time shook so heavily that I was sure it would snap in half soon. My heart rate jumped to 200 for quite some time :) And the landing took forever! But we made it. Once we landed the plane I was the skies in the distance - it was all dark gray and looked evil, winds were strong as well and it was raining, I guess the severe weather has not yet passed.
Yeh. So I was in Hong Kong finally. I have learned by now to check everything twice and then one more time and then cross check again just in case. So I found the Finnair counter and asked them to review my booking for tomorrow. The guy sits and stares at the computer for the longest time with a puzzled face. Finally he informs me that there is a booking, but it is not confirmed. So I ask him to confirm it (whatever it means) and he tells me that it is not possible, because my ticket is not valid anymore. My ticket was unchangeable one and it was with yesterdays date. Oh uh. So I ask him for advice of what I should do now, he suggests me to turn to Vietnam Airlines as they are responsible for that. And the whole time I don't really understand how can I have a half made booking without a ticket :) As he gets tired of trying to explain me the complicated ticketing system of the airlines he makes some phone calls and stares at the computer screen and then announces that all is good for my check in tomorrow morning. Ahum, snap and all ready? I'm a bit skeptical, but I don't have any strength nor will to argue with anybody anymore. So I give up, we'll see tomorrow morning what will happen.
Now I just want to munch on the chocolate I bought and rest for a bit. I'm so sad that I'll be missing a whole day of my vacation, it was planned for getting many things arranged before heading to work, won't happen now :( I guess I need to sacrifice my weekend for the tasks now :(
day 38 - last day in hanoi - 23.09
Or so I thought :(, complete story a bit later.
Final packing action took place in the morning. I don't know how, but I managed to fit everything in :) My big bag must weigh about 30kg though :) Checked out of the hotel, ordered airport taxi for 3:30 and headed to the Army Museum. I wanted to see the army museum as I heard from other travelers that it portrays the war and occupation quite well. Just in case I read the history section in the travel guide beforehand - I'm glad I did that as the museum was not that comprehensive at all. It gave some insight to the situation but many principal reasons for certain events were not explained at all, simply the event was shown, but why it happened and who initiated was not explained. So I was very glad I had done my homework.
Since the discussion with other travelers and some questions bought up in the bus ride to Halong Bay I started to ponder about the timeline of the events and reasons behind the political and war actions taken. I wanted to get a clear overview of the events and reasons behind the events - so hence the museum visit. As I did not get what I wanted from there I did some research on the net as well - I'll have a separate entry for the history lesson a bit later as it is still in progress :)
After the museum I walked around in the area a bit, stumbled upon some well guarded memorial by Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum building, walked by the mausoleum as well, but as the body is in maintenance at the moment then did not bother going in. Found the stadium of Hanoi - it was all closed and deserted for all I could detect. Stumbled upon Literature pagoda - this one I chose to explore as well. Then my time was up - walked back, had quick lunch and shower at the hotel (this hotel I stayed at was super nice, they would help with anything one needs). Then headed over to the airport - getting all sad that my vacation is over.
At the airport first I got my big back bag wrapped in plastic and then headed over to the check in area. It was strangely empty, on a closer look I notice an information sheet saying that the flight has been canceled due to severe weather, typhoon Hagupit has taken over Hong Kong and all the passengers are automatically rescheduled for the next morning's flight at 11:05 - argh, this means I'll miss my flight to Helsinki! Other passengers were mostly rerouted, but as I was holding two separate tickets (Hanoi -> Hong Kong and then Hong Kong -> Helsinki -> Tallinn) then they were not able to reroute me. All they could do is to rebook me for the same flights with a one day delay. Which means that I'd be leaving Hanoi at 19:10 on the 24th and flight from Hong Kong would be on the 25th - so I'd get home a day later. Oh I was devastated - I had planned one day for just relaxing before heading to work, so that will not be happening.
Just in case I contacted my travel agent as well to see if she is able to change the tickets or something so that I'd still get back at the initially planned date. After about 2 hours of discussions and checks and double checks it became clear that my best option is to leave the next day - but I might be able to get on an earlier flight on standby (the one they originally suggested, at 11:05). As I was double checking my ticket I noticed that they had not re booked my flight out of Hong Kong - grrr, meaning that Finnair would simply think that I never showed up. It was whole new hassle to find the lady, explain it all to her that there was mistake and ask them to take care of it. About 45 minutes later I had a new printout where the flight to Helsinki was changed as well, glad that I noticed!
So then I went to a cafe and tried to figure out what should I do next. I also checked the weather information, turns out that the storm is heading towards northern Vietnam :( So basically I need to get out of here as soon as possible, otherwise I'll be stuck still. I figured that I should try to get on a first flight the next day and get to Hong Kong somehow, there I would be able to communicate with Finnair at least, in case some flight is overbooked now or something - I'd be right on the spot for information and I would not need to get it done through some third person who can barely make herself understandable in English :(
So I decided to stay at the airport in order to start checking the flights early on. That was one horrible night :( First of all they closed all the floors except the first floor, so I ended up sleeping on cafeteria chairs. Second of all there was no air conditioning in the building so it was extremely hot. Then there were cockroaches and rats running around all over the place, cockroaches were on the table I sat at and climbing on the chairs and everywhere - oh it was freaky. At some point all the lights got turned off as well. OOOh it was just bad, bad bad bad I say.
Final packing action took place in the morning. I don't know how, but I managed to fit everything in :) My big bag must weigh about 30kg though :) Checked out of the hotel, ordered airport taxi for 3:30 and headed to the Army Museum. I wanted to see the army museum as I heard from other travelers that it portrays the war and occupation quite well. Just in case I read the history section in the travel guide beforehand - I'm glad I did that as the museum was not that comprehensive at all. It gave some insight to the situation but many principal reasons for certain events were not explained at all, simply the event was shown, but why it happened and who initiated was not explained. So I was very glad I had done my homework.
Since the discussion with other travelers and some questions bought up in the bus ride to Halong Bay I started to ponder about the timeline of the events and reasons behind the political and war actions taken. I wanted to get a clear overview of the events and reasons behind the events - so hence the museum visit. As I did not get what I wanted from there I did some research on the net as well - I'll have a separate entry for the history lesson a bit later as it is still in progress :)
After the museum I walked around in the area a bit, stumbled upon some well guarded memorial by Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum building, walked by the mausoleum as well, but as the body is in maintenance at the moment then did not bother going in. Found the stadium of Hanoi - it was all closed and deserted for all I could detect. Stumbled upon Literature pagoda - this one I chose to explore as well. Then my time was up - walked back, had quick lunch and shower at the hotel (this hotel I stayed at was super nice, they would help with anything one needs). Then headed over to the airport - getting all sad that my vacation is over.
At the airport first I got my big back bag wrapped in plastic and then headed over to the check in area. It was strangely empty, on a closer look I notice an information sheet saying that the flight has been canceled due to severe weather, typhoon Hagupit has taken over Hong Kong and all the passengers are automatically rescheduled for the next morning's flight at 11:05 - argh, this means I'll miss my flight to Helsinki! Other passengers were mostly rerouted, but as I was holding two separate tickets (Hanoi -> Hong Kong and then Hong Kong -> Helsinki -> Tallinn) then they were not able to reroute me. All they could do is to rebook me for the same flights with a one day delay. Which means that I'd be leaving Hanoi at 19:10 on the 24th and flight from Hong Kong would be on the 25th - so I'd get home a day later. Oh I was devastated - I had planned one day for just relaxing before heading to work, so that will not be happening.
Just in case I contacted my travel agent as well to see if she is able to change the tickets or something so that I'd still get back at the initially planned date. After about 2 hours of discussions and checks and double checks it became clear that my best option is to leave the next day - but I might be able to get on an earlier flight on standby (the one they originally suggested, at 11:05). As I was double checking my ticket I noticed that they had not re booked my flight out of Hong Kong - grrr, meaning that Finnair would simply think that I never showed up. It was whole new hassle to find the lady, explain it all to her that there was mistake and ask them to take care of it. About 45 minutes later I had a new printout where the flight to Helsinki was changed as well, glad that I noticed!
So then I went to a cafe and tried to figure out what should I do next. I also checked the weather information, turns out that the storm is heading towards northern Vietnam :( So basically I need to get out of here as soon as possible, otherwise I'll be stuck still. I figured that I should try to get on a first flight the next day and get to Hong Kong somehow, there I would be able to communicate with Finnair at least, in case some flight is overbooked now or something - I'd be right on the spot for information and I would not need to get it done through some third person who can barely make herself understandable in English :(
So I decided to stay at the airport in order to start checking the flights early on. That was one horrible night :( First of all they closed all the floors except the first floor, so I ended up sleeping on cafeteria chairs. Second of all there was no air conditioning in the building so it was extremely hot. Then there were cockroaches and rats running around all over the place, cockroaches were on the table I sat at and climbing on the chairs and everywhere - oh it was freaky. At some point all the lights got turned off as well. OOOh it was just bad, bad bad bad I say.
Monday, September 22, 2008
day 37 - Hanoi - 22.09
Slept in this morning - for once the hotel is a quiet one, can't hear the traffic with all the loud horns blowing and no construction close by. It has also good air conditioning so it was no problem to sleep long :) Breakfast is served till 11:30 - so all good!
Didn't do much interesting today. All the museums are closed on Mondays, so can't do that. Instead I spend about 3 hours shopping :), then had long lunch and then returned to the hotel in order to pack. I was dreading this packing thing for a long time already - I have no idea how I can fit all this stuff in my bag :( It took me about 2 hours to carefully wrap everything in and squeeze into a bag. I have most of my big bag packed by now - phew. Carry on bag is still waiting and that I'll do tomorrow.
I'll be going to dinner shortly - will try to find a nice place by the river and take the last of the final night in Vietnam.
My plane from Hanoi to Hong Kong leaves at 7 in the evening, I'll leave to the airport around 3:30pm. I'll be spending the night at the airport, next morning (24th) I'll take a plane to Helsinki and then to Tallinn.
I want to make it over to the army museum before I leave Hanoi tomorrow, so I'll probably do a check out around 9 to have plenty of time at the museum. I'm not sure that I will be online tomorrow, perhaps a quick update from Hong Kong airport in the evening. In any case - see you all soon enough!
Didn't do much interesting today. All the museums are closed on Mondays, so can't do that. Instead I spend about 3 hours shopping :), then had long lunch and then returned to the hotel in order to pack. I was dreading this packing thing for a long time already - I have no idea how I can fit all this stuff in my bag :( It took me about 2 hours to carefully wrap everything in and squeeze into a bag. I have most of my big bag packed by now - phew. Carry on bag is still waiting and that I'll do tomorrow.
I'll be going to dinner shortly - will try to find a nice place by the river and take the last of the final night in Vietnam.
My plane from Hanoi to Hong Kong leaves at 7 in the evening, I'll leave to the airport around 3:30pm. I'll be spending the night at the airport, next morning (24th) I'll take a plane to Helsinki and then to Tallinn.
I want to make it over to the army museum before I leave Hanoi tomorrow, so I'll probably do a check out around 9 to have plenty of time at the museum. I'm not sure that I will be online tomorrow, perhaps a quick update from Hong Kong airport in the evening. In any case - see you all soon enough!
day 36 - Perfume Pagoda - 21.09
Perfume Pagoda is situated 60km southwest from Hanoi so it was about 2h bus ride to get there. Our group consisted of 8 people:
-- a couple from UK - the guy had competed in his first Triathlon this year, half of Olympic Distance, later we talked about triathlon half way up the hill
-- two quiet ladies from Germany
-- one crabby old economy teacher from Austria
-- one younger guy from Australia
-- one economy professor from India - he was very talkative and on the way there we got to cover half of Estonian customs and half of worlds economy systems :D, second half got covered on the way back. On top of all he suggested working in Bangalore for me :) Not a bad idea huh?
There are many theories of where the name Perfume comes from since there is nothing that smells good over there :) As the travel guide explains: Perfume Pagoda is a striking complex of pagodas and Buddhist shrines built into the karst cliffs of Huong Tich Mountain (Mountain of the Fragrant Traces). The only way to get there is by boat. So once we got off the bus we boarded the very basic boats - there were two narrow wooden benches where 4 of us were seated. Boat ride was 1 hour, my but started hurting after 30 minutes already though. Boat was rowed by a very professional lady and again the scenery was beautiful.
We were scheduled to visit 2 temples. First temple was close to where we got off the boats. After visiting the first temple we had a nice lunch. The second temple should have been reachable by cable car, but it turned out that cable car was broken on that day :( So we hiked up, which was not bad either. Second, the most famous temple, was situated in a cave. Cave was huuuuge and had 2 entries, on the very back there was the main altar and other altars were scattered around the cave on both sides. The way back went quickly as it was exactly the same track and boat ride.
In the evening we went out to eat with the Australian and with the guy from India - first dinner and then couple of drinks in a second story balcony cafe looking over the lake :)
I will be leaving the day after tomorrow :(
-- a couple from UK - the guy had competed in his first Triathlon this year, half of Olympic Distance, later we talked about triathlon half way up the hill
-- two quiet ladies from Germany
-- one crabby old economy teacher from Austria
-- one younger guy from Australia
-- one economy professor from India - he was very talkative and on the way there we got to cover half of Estonian customs and half of worlds economy systems :D, second half got covered on the way back. On top of all he suggested working in Bangalore for me :) Not a bad idea huh?
There are many theories of where the name Perfume comes from since there is nothing that smells good over there :) As the travel guide explains: Perfume Pagoda is a striking complex of pagodas and Buddhist shrines built into the karst cliffs of Huong Tich Mountain (Mountain of the Fragrant Traces). The only way to get there is by boat. So once we got off the bus we boarded the very basic boats - there were two narrow wooden benches where 4 of us were seated. Boat ride was 1 hour, my but started hurting after 30 minutes already though. Boat was rowed by a very professional lady and again the scenery was beautiful.
We were scheduled to visit 2 temples. First temple was close to where we got off the boats. After visiting the first temple we had a nice lunch. The second temple should have been reachable by cable car, but it turned out that cable car was broken on that day :( So we hiked up, which was not bad either. Second, the most famous temple, was situated in a cave. Cave was huuuuge and had 2 entries, on the very back there was the main altar and other altars were scattered around the cave on both sides. The way back went quickly as it was exactly the same track and boat ride.
In the evening we went out to eat with the Australian and with the guy from India - first dinner and then couple of drinks in a second story balcony cafe looking over the lake :)
I will be leaving the day after tomorrow :(
Saturday, September 20, 2008
day 35 - back to Hanoi - 20.09
Bus ride to Hanoi was fine. The bus had AC and overly loud horn. In traffic the vehicles press the horn when starting to pass someone or they simply want to warn pedestrians that they are coming - so the result is that there are lots of horns being blown all the time (pretty annoying I have to admit, especially early in the morning). Now the horns, the horns sound like a melody, yeah they have a tune. The horn on the bus today, it would cut through bone and the driver was very anxious to use it whenever possible.
There was a German couple sitting right behind me so once we got to the bus station in Hanoi I asked if hey are heading to the city center. They are leaving tonight, but they were gonna go to a hotel they stayed in at the beginning of their trip and leave the bags there while looking around in town. They were gonna get a taxi and asked me to join them - maybe I'd get a good deal on a room from the hotel. So we shared a taxi and the hotel was nice. A bit pricey, but very nice. I got a discount, they included breakfast and a room with a view to the lake :)
In the afternoon I just did a whole lotta shopping :-P and went a wonderful restaurant for a dinner. Place was called Hanoi Garden and the food was best food ever.
Tomorrow I'll be going to Perfume Pagoda for the day :), this will include some traveling by bus, then by boat, then some cable car'ing and then some hiking :D weheee.
There was a German couple sitting right behind me so once we got to the bus station in Hanoi I asked if hey are heading to the city center. They are leaving tonight, but they were gonna go to a hotel they stayed in at the beginning of their trip and leave the bags there while looking around in town. They were gonna get a taxi and asked me to join them - maybe I'd get a good deal on a room from the hotel. So we shared a taxi and the hotel was nice. A bit pricey, but very nice. I got a discount, they included breakfast and a room with a view to the lake :)
In the afternoon I just did a whole lotta shopping :-P and went a wonderful restaurant for a dinner. Place was called Hanoi Garden and the food was best food ever.
Tomorrow I'll be going to Perfume Pagoda for the day :), this will include some traveling by bus, then by boat, then some cable car'ing and then some hiking :D weheee.
day 34 - Ninh Binh, Hoa Lu - 19.09
Today I got to visit ancient capital of Vietnam - city of Hoa Lu. City itself has been destroyed and only few temples remain. I visited both of the temples and found another active temple area between the narrow streets (just followed the arrows :) ). Landscape in Hoa Lu is fabulous though. In Tam Coc I got to see the rocks sticking out of the ground from distance, but now I was in the middle of them - gorgeous. Temples were like any temple - many little rooms all connected and with huge altars.
Motorbike ride was a bit easier this time, it was 15km from Ninh Binh so it was further away but the road was a bit better (or I had just mastered the art of not flying off the bike :) ). On the way there we passed through funny round tunnels, I wish I could have taken a picture of them. Tunnels took us through the hills. On the way back we took a different route and passed through some small local villages with extremely narrow streets.
Once I got back to Ninh Binh I tried to go and visit the local church here, but it was closed :( So I went to the local market instead.
I figured that I won't try to squeeze another town in, so I will return to Hanoi tomorrow at noon. The bus will pick me up from my hotel (how nice :) ), bus ride will be about 2 hours as they say, also air conditioning was promised - will see will see.
Motorbike ride was a bit easier this time, it was 15km from Ninh Binh so it was further away but the road was a bit better (or I had just mastered the art of not flying off the bike :) ). On the way there we passed through funny round tunnels, I wish I could have taken a picture of them. Tunnels took us through the hills. On the way back we took a different route and passed through some small local villages with extremely narrow streets.
Once I got back to Ninh Binh I tried to go and visit the local church here, but it was closed :( So I went to the local market instead.
I figured that I won't try to squeeze another town in, so I will return to Hanoi tomorrow at noon. The bus will pick me up from my hotel (how nice :) ), bus ride will be about 2 hours as they say, also air conditioning was promised - will see will see.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
day 33 - Ninh Binh, Tam Coc - 18.09
Today is my dad's birthday!!! Yay!!! Greeting already went on the way earlier :) Hugs will follow in a week.
Now about the day. As soon as the taxi stopped in the bus station there were 2 locals who basically climbed in the taxi through the window - wanting to know where I'm going to. Oh how annoying. So I shook them off and made my way to the ticket counter, bought one ticket to Ninh Binh. Immediately one of the guys grabbed my arm and started dragging me towards the buses - at this time I already yelled at him. Then he made me sit on one of the benches explaining something to me in Vietnamese, whatever, I thought to myself. Hotel told me that the bus will leave at 7:10, but on the ticket the time is written as 6:30, hmm. Apparently I was able to board the bus as the guy waved at me intensely. Bus left 6:33.
Comes out this guy is some sort of bus guy. He boarded the bus and was hanging halfway out of the door most of the journey, sticking his hand out and making very female like wave movements when we were passing some vehicles - strangest thing ever. He also dragged people onto the bus from the street - bizarre :)
Way from bus station to city center was nice and short. I found a hotel for myself quickly, it is a very nice one with huuuge rooms, so nice. My room is on the top floor and on its own wing aaaand I got wireless in my room! It is absolutely beautiful place :)
Anyhoo, went to do some research about the tours that I could take to Tam Coc and Hoa Lu. Research means going around and getting different offers. As there is no public transport going to those places I got stuck with renting a car or a motorbike with a driver. While I was in town conducting my research I ran into the couple from Netherlands :D They told about their tours experience here and also their adventures getting to town - got some good laughs and also useful information. They are leaving today though. About the tour - I chose to rent a motorbike with a driver as this is times cheaper than a car.
After having quick shower and even quicker lunch my tour started. I hopped on a motorbike and off we went. In Sapa the ride was fun, you barely had to even hold on to the bike, so I was not too worried. He was taking back roads as agreed in order for me to see the scenery. The journey was gonna be 8km. First kilometer was fine as we were going on a city street. Oh but then, oooh my, the road got really bad. I was sure that I will fly off the bike every 20 meters. The road had huge holes and cracks and rocks sticking out - it was a nightmare. He drove really carefully and all, but the road was just very bad. I was holding on to my seat with all my strength and after a while I could not feel my fingers. But I survived of course without falling off - but barely.
First we stopped at Tam Coc - scenic riverside with high rocks/cliffs sticking out of the ground like in Halong Bay, only this time it is all on land and to be viewed from a boat on the river. Boats are rowed by local ladies mostly, there was one rower for my boat, a very nice lady. It takes about 1 hour to go one way through 3 caves and the same way back - total about 2 hours. Lady was rowing away and I was clicking pictures like mad (again :) ) when all of the sudden the boat started rocking from one side to the other. So I looked over and the lady was rowing using her feet! I saw some others doing the same, it was neat! And the scenery was wonderful again of course.
Second stop was Bich Dong Pagoda situated just few kilometers away from Tam Coc. It was a temple built in front of a cliff, inside the cliff and on top of the cliff - it consisted of about 6 units all located on different levels and locations. Probably the most interesting temple I've been to yet :)
Evening is peaceful so far - ate dinner at the hotel, uploading pictures, writing posts and watching a movie. Will go to bed soon and sleep as long as possible tomorrow morning :D Tomorrow I'll be going to Hoa Lu by motorbike again :D
Now about the day. As soon as the taxi stopped in the bus station there were 2 locals who basically climbed in the taxi through the window - wanting to know where I'm going to. Oh how annoying. So I shook them off and made my way to the ticket counter, bought one ticket to Ninh Binh. Immediately one of the guys grabbed my arm and started dragging me towards the buses - at this time I already yelled at him. Then he made me sit on one of the benches explaining something to me in Vietnamese, whatever, I thought to myself. Hotel told me that the bus will leave at 7:10, but on the ticket the time is written as 6:30, hmm. Apparently I was able to board the bus as the guy waved at me intensely. Bus left 6:33.
Comes out this guy is some sort of bus guy. He boarded the bus and was hanging halfway out of the door most of the journey, sticking his hand out and making very female like wave movements when we were passing some vehicles - strangest thing ever. He also dragged people onto the bus from the street - bizarre :)
Way from bus station to city center was nice and short. I found a hotel for myself quickly, it is a very nice one with huuuge rooms, so nice. My room is on the top floor and on its own wing aaaand I got wireless in my room! It is absolutely beautiful place :)
Anyhoo, went to do some research about the tours that I could take to Tam Coc and Hoa Lu. Research means going around and getting different offers. As there is no public transport going to those places I got stuck with renting a car or a motorbike with a driver. While I was in town conducting my research I ran into the couple from Netherlands :D They told about their tours experience here and also their adventures getting to town - got some good laughs and also useful information. They are leaving today though. About the tour - I chose to rent a motorbike with a driver as this is times cheaper than a car.
After having quick shower and even quicker lunch my tour started. I hopped on a motorbike and off we went. In Sapa the ride was fun, you barely had to even hold on to the bike, so I was not too worried. He was taking back roads as agreed in order for me to see the scenery. The journey was gonna be 8km. First kilometer was fine as we were going on a city street. Oh but then, oooh my, the road got really bad. I was sure that I will fly off the bike every 20 meters. The road had huge holes and cracks and rocks sticking out - it was a nightmare. He drove really carefully and all, but the road was just very bad. I was holding on to my seat with all my strength and after a while I could not feel my fingers. But I survived of course without falling off - but barely.
First we stopped at Tam Coc - scenic riverside with high rocks/cliffs sticking out of the ground like in Halong Bay, only this time it is all on land and to be viewed from a boat on the river. Boats are rowed by local ladies mostly, there was one rower for my boat, a very nice lady. It takes about 1 hour to go one way through 3 caves and the same way back - total about 2 hours. Lady was rowing away and I was clicking pictures like mad (again :) ) when all of the sudden the boat started rocking from one side to the other. So I looked over and the lady was rowing using her feet! I saw some others doing the same, it was neat! And the scenery was wonderful again of course.
Second stop was Bich Dong Pagoda situated just few kilometers away from Tam Coc. It was a temple built in front of a cliff, inside the cliff and on top of the cliff - it consisted of about 6 units all located on different levels and locations. Probably the most interesting temple I've been to yet :)
Evening is peaceful so far - ate dinner at the hotel, uploading pictures, writing posts and watching a movie. Will go to bed soon and sleep as long as possible tomorrow morning :D Tomorrow I'll be going to Hoa Lu by motorbike again :D
day 32 - Haiphong - 17.09
The boat from Cat Ba to Haiphong was to go at 5:45, from the hotel they said I should be there around 5:30. As the pier was basically just across the road from the hotel, I got there at 5:20 just in case. There was no line, there was nobody moving in and out of the boats, people just standing around and talking. So I went closer and tried to show my ticket to one of the ladies on the pier, she barely looked at it and waved me on. I basically just picked one of the boats and boarded, nobody seemed to care :) Checked with one lady on the boat if it is indeed going to Haiphong - yeap, I chose the correct boat seems like. And surprise surprise, the boat took off at 5:31 - I'm glad I got there a bit earlier :D
The boat was very basic and very rusty, I'm pretty sure any boat in this condition should not carry passengers :) But nothing I can do I guess :) All the locals made themselves comfortable and went to sleep, I watched the scenery a bit and then laid down as well. Boat ride was 3 hours.
First task was to find a hostel - found one and got a quite decent room. Then off to the city. Haiphong is one of the main seaports and third largest city in Vietnam. It has some wonderful colonial-era buildings and wonderful parks. The parks in Asia in general are really neat - they are complex and very well cared for.
Walked around and looked up the opera house and made a circle around the city center. There is not much to do in Haiphong, but the walks are nice and streets with the old buildings are great. Another very positive thing is widely available wireless everywhere, basically every third cafe or restaurant has wifi :) So I took my time and checked my mail and bank account - haven't done that for a while and luckily everything was still under control :D
I'll be taking a bus to Ninh Binh tomorrow morning at 7:10, as the bus station is quite far from city center then taxi is ordered to the hotel at 6am. Haven't gotten to sleep in for almost a week already :(
Oh and I will be home in a week, my beautiful vacation is ending soon :(
The boat was very basic and very rusty, I'm pretty sure any boat in this condition should not carry passengers :) But nothing I can do I guess :) All the locals made themselves comfortable and went to sleep, I watched the scenery a bit and then laid down as well. Boat ride was 3 hours.
First task was to find a hostel - found one and got a quite decent room. Then off to the city. Haiphong is one of the main seaports and third largest city in Vietnam. It has some wonderful colonial-era buildings and wonderful parks. The parks in Asia in general are really neat - they are complex and very well cared for.
Walked around and looked up the opera house and made a circle around the city center. There is not much to do in Haiphong, but the walks are nice and streets with the old buildings are great. Another very positive thing is widely available wireless everywhere, basically every third cafe or restaurant has wifi :) So I took my time and checked my mail and bank account - haven't done that for a while and luckily everything was still under control :D
I'll be taking a bus to Ninh Binh tomorrow morning at 7:10, as the bus station is quite far from city center then taxi is ordered to the hotel at 6am. Haven't gotten to sleep in for almost a week already :(
Oh and I will be home in a week, my beautiful vacation is ending soon :(
Sünnipäeva õnnitlused :)
Ma natukene hüppan ajas ringi nüüd ja saadan teele õnnesoovid tänasele päevakangelasele:
PALJU PALJU ÕNNE SÜNNIPÄEVAKS KALLIS ISA!!!!
Siis hiljem teen sissekande eilse päeva kohta ja kirjutan ka tänastest seiklustest :)
PALJU PALJU ÕNNE SÜNNIPÄEVAKS KALLIS ISA!!!!
Siis hiljem teen sissekande eilse päeva kohta ja kirjutan ka tänastest seiklustest :)
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
day 31 - halong bay, day 3 - 16.09
Breakfast was at 8, we had it together with our group who then took off with the tour guide to get back to Halong City by boat. We exchanged contact information and said our goodbyes. Couple from Holland is moving to the same direction as I am so I might see them in a few days.
I packed my little back bag and headed over to the beach number 2 :) I was basically the first one there :D Oh it was nice :D Like a paradise again! Sun was roasting me though and the sea did not bring any comfort either as the water was warm and it had no cooling effect of any sort. As the morning proceeded the sand would get too hot to walk on. So all my attempts to get to the water were fast running :) After getting in and out couple of times I saw a jellyfish :( All of the sudden the water did not seem that tempting anymore :( Waaaa. Also I did not manage to stay in the sun for more than 1,5 hours - the heat is just killing over here. So I dragged my expensive chair (they made me buy a ticket for the chair) into the shade and enjoyed the beach from there :) Shade was nice. But I still could not handle the heat for too long - managed to stay on the beach almost 4 hours and then I escaped into my air conditioned hotel room. Oh the heat is unbearable here and the sea is too warm as well. It definitely was enjoyable and great, but can't do it more than few hours at a time. Paradise is great - just a bit too warm ;)
As this is my lazy day then I was not too worried with doing things. Last days have been busy enough so I'm just chilling here :) Later will find a nice place to eat dinner and then will pack and get to bed early hopefully. Perhaps take even a bath before going to bed :D
For tomorrow I got a boat ticket directly from Cat Ba island to Haiphong - the boat leaves at 5:30 in the morning and will take about 3 hours. I'll try to look around Haiphong tomorrow the whole day and then move on to Ninh Binh to spend 2 to 3 days there before returning to Hanoi before my departure home.
I packed my little back bag and headed over to the beach number 2 :) I was basically the first one there :D Oh it was nice :D Like a paradise again! Sun was roasting me though and the sea did not bring any comfort either as the water was warm and it had no cooling effect of any sort. As the morning proceeded the sand would get too hot to walk on. So all my attempts to get to the water were fast running :) After getting in and out couple of times I saw a jellyfish :( All of the sudden the water did not seem that tempting anymore :( Waaaa. Also I did not manage to stay in the sun for more than 1,5 hours - the heat is just killing over here. So I dragged my expensive chair (they made me buy a ticket for the chair) into the shade and enjoyed the beach from there :) Shade was nice. But I still could not handle the heat for too long - managed to stay on the beach almost 4 hours and then I escaped into my air conditioned hotel room. Oh the heat is unbearable here and the sea is too warm as well. It definitely was enjoyable and great, but can't do it more than few hours at a time. Paradise is great - just a bit too warm ;)
As this is my lazy day then I was not too worried with doing things. Last days have been busy enough so I'm just chilling here :) Later will find a nice place to eat dinner and then will pack and get to bed early hopefully. Perhaps take even a bath before going to bed :D
For tomorrow I got a boat ticket directly from Cat Ba island to Haiphong - the boat leaves at 5:30 in the morning and will take about 3 hours. I'll try to look around Haiphong tomorrow the whole day and then move on to Ninh Binh to spend 2 to 3 days there before returning to Hanoi before my departure home.
day 30 - halong bay, day 2 - 15.09
Breakfast was served at a 7:30, but I was up way before that. I took a quick shower downstairs and packed my things. After breakfast we got go enjoy the scenery some more and then I was dropped off at Cat Ba island and others who had only 2 day tour were taken back to the coast. On an island I was joined with a couple from Netherlands. We exchanged our experiences of the boat as we were taken to the highest point on the island - 331m above sea level.
Getting to the summit was an experience. We had a small group - couple from Holland and me. First our guide only came half way up, saying that he is tired and there is only one way going up so it is not possible for us to get lost. So we continued on our own. At the end the track got quite rocky and you really needed some arm strength to pull yourself up the rocky stairs - it was pure rock climbing :) I enjoyed it, little adventure is not bad, couple from Netherlands was not too happy about it though. At the summit there was also one rusty tower with a viewing platform - view was great as usual.
After dropping things off at the hotel and having lunch, we gathered at the lobby at 2pm to go to the Monkey Island. First a bus to an opposite side of the island to take a boat. Our group had grown to 8 now - me, couple from Netherlands, couple from UK, brother and sister from UK and a guy from Japan. Very nice people. We arrived to the island just before 2:30, there was a nice beach with white sand and the island seemed to be deserted - it was just perfect. Another short kayaking trip and lots of swimming and chilling in this unbelievably warm water.
After some time the monkeys arrived - they just walked to the beach out of nowhere. By that time some other boats had dropped few more people off. The monkeys seemed innocent. There was four of them and one of the girls brought peanuts for the monkeys. She fed them a bit as we all gathered around to take pictures. Suddenly one of the monkeys jumped up to one of the guys. Ugh, scary. So we kept our distance a bit. They were eating and staring at us, walking around a bit and just sitting there. I have no idea what kind of monkeys they were. They were not very big, had light brown color, long tails and one of them got really red face. Next thing I know is that one of the monkeys is going after one of the guys, fast as lightning, so the guy runs to the water and all the other group member around him do the same as fast as they can. Comes out the guy hissed at the monkey and tried to scare it - so the monkey came after it. Luckily they don't swim I guess :) Travel guide advised people not to too close to them and warned that the monkeys are quite aggressive - I guess it is not the first time they attack the tourists.
We stayed at the island for about 2 hours, at first it was nice and quiet, only us at the beach. In the end it got quite crowded as boats just kept coming and dropping people off at the beach. I was so glad that we got there early enough to get our share of the beauty. We returned to Cat Ba island.
As we had almost 2 hours till dinner we decided to wonder to a beach and check it out. There are 3 different beaches and beach #2 is the nicest as far as the travel guide says. Indeed it was nice, with little huts and shades and a nice park right by the sand. Another swim and nice conversations, then back to the hotel for dinner.
After dinner we headed out with some people for drinks. Had wonderful time and intense discussions about Vietnamese history and world matters in general. UK couple has just started their up-to-1-year trip from Asia. I keep seeing more and more people who do that - incredible. Arrived back to the hotel past midnight. I was so relieved that I got an extra day here - no need to start packing :)
Getting to the summit was an experience. We had a small group - couple from Holland and me. First our guide only came half way up, saying that he is tired and there is only one way going up so it is not possible for us to get lost. So we continued on our own. At the end the track got quite rocky and you really needed some arm strength to pull yourself up the rocky stairs - it was pure rock climbing :) I enjoyed it, little adventure is not bad, couple from Netherlands was not too happy about it though. At the summit there was also one rusty tower with a viewing platform - view was great as usual.
After dropping things off at the hotel and having lunch, we gathered at the lobby at 2pm to go to the Monkey Island. First a bus to an opposite side of the island to take a boat. Our group had grown to 8 now - me, couple from Netherlands, couple from UK, brother and sister from UK and a guy from Japan. Very nice people. We arrived to the island just before 2:30, there was a nice beach with white sand and the island seemed to be deserted - it was just perfect. Another short kayaking trip and lots of swimming and chilling in this unbelievably warm water.
After some time the monkeys arrived - they just walked to the beach out of nowhere. By that time some other boats had dropped few more people off. The monkeys seemed innocent. There was four of them and one of the girls brought peanuts for the monkeys. She fed them a bit as we all gathered around to take pictures. Suddenly one of the monkeys jumped up to one of the guys. Ugh, scary. So we kept our distance a bit. They were eating and staring at us, walking around a bit and just sitting there. I have no idea what kind of monkeys they were. They were not very big, had light brown color, long tails and one of them got really red face. Next thing I know is that one of the monkeys is going after one of the guys, fast as lightning, so the guy runs to the water and all the other group member around him do the same as fast as they can. Comes out the guy hissed at the monkey and tried to scare it - so the monkey came after it. Luckily they don't swim I guess :) Travel guide advised people not to too close to them and warned that the monkeys are quite aggressive - I guess it is not the first time they attack the tourists.
We stayed at the island for about 2 hours, at first it was nice and quiet, only us at the beach. In the end it got quite crowded as boats just kept coming and dropping people off at the beach. I was so glad that we got there early enough to get our share of the beauty. We returned to Cat Ba island.
As we had almost 2 hours till dinner we decided to wonder to a beach and check it out. There are 3 different beaches and beach #2 is the nicest as far as the travel guide says. Indeed it was nice, with little huts and shades and a nice park right by the sand. Another swim and nice conversations, then back to the hotel for dinner.
After dinner we headed out with some people for drinks. Had wonderful time and intense discussions about Vietnamese history and world matters in general. UK couple has just started their up-to-1-year trip from Asia. I keep seeing more and more people who do that - incredible. Arrived back to the hotel past midnight. I was so relieved that I got an extra day here - no need to start packing :)
day 29 - halong bay, day 1 - 14.09
Riina set her alarm incorrectly by accident and we woke at 4:58, her taxi was to arrive at 5am. Neither of us got much sleep that night. She was ready in a snap though and off within 10 minutes. I tried to go back to sleep for 1,5 hours but could not manage to fall asleep again. Instead I watched some news from the TV and learned of a tropical storm on the coast of China moving towards Japan. The tour transportation picked me up from my hotel a bit earlier than agreed - at 7:20 only to be taken to some office to wait for another 45 minutes. At least they had internet there so I could check my mail and post an entry.
Finally the correct bus arrived. After about an hour of driving we all new each other and there were lively discussions going on, there was about 15 people in the bus, great bunch of people. Next to me sat a guy doing his doctorate in physics, he was studying light and was explaining in great detail and in enough simple turns of what it means to study light and how the studies could evolve and change the world in the future. We also touched the subject of nano computers - really great talk :) He had a dream to start a company that would specialize in research and also deliver enhanced technological products at some point. He dreamt of a revolutionizing the world through light - what a great dream.
Once we arrived to Halong City I was guided to join another group and then yet another. On top of all this my new tour guide almost forgot me at the port, I caught in on the last moment, before he was to step on a boat and reminded of myself. I ended up being on a boat with a bunch of unhappy tourists, most of them being Asian and talking in a language I did not comprehend. I was sad to be separated from the first group :( But anyhoo, the environment made all the problems disappear :D
The boat we boarded was a 3 level river boat with cabins on the bottom level, dining area on the middle level and top level for open platform with beach chairs and benches. First we had lunch, this was right after leaving the harbour. Then we were simply cruising around in Halong Bay. Travel guide talks about Halong Bay as pure art that can not be described in words - that is exactly how it is. Locals say that the islands are dragons turned into stone and are there to protect the country from invaders - apparently a bit different than what the travel guide says :D There are more than 3000 small islands or huge cliffs/rocks rising out of green-blue waters - it is gorgeous. At some point there were many boat cruising by us but after a while we were all by ourselves between those silent high rocks sticking out of the water. The day was beautiful and there was slight breeze to make it all even more enjoyable. I found myself thinking: "so that is what paradise looks like". I closed my thoughts and just stared at the beauty around me. There was sun, the islands, water, slight breeze and the boat engine silently humming on the background - just absolute bliss.
After about 45 minutes we stopped at a Sung Sot cave. This cave was discovered just recently - 1993. By now it is all set and ready for tourists - all lit up and walkways prepared. Cave was impressive though :) After looking around a bit back to the boats we went.
First night was to be spent on the boat so it was stopped between some islands around 5pm. Then we got to take a ride on kayaks for a while. We kayaked through a cave and entered into what seemed like a big lake, but was really part of the sea but surrounded with rocks all around us - we were in the middle of an island with the kayak :D So time for a swim, there was a BUT though - there are jellyfish everywhere :( There are 2 types of them - the big ones and small ones with long tail type things. Big ones are not that dangerous as their stinging is very mild. The small ones are dangerous though - their sting hurts really bad and the rash stays for at least a week :( So I hesitated about jumping in the water. Our guide said that he'd look our for the jellys as they are always on top of the water and he'd let me know where can I move. So I just did a small circle around the kayaks. Oh the water was warm, really really warm, like a bath water. It was strange and unusual for me as it did not bring any relief from the heat.
We got back with the kayaks just in time as it was starting to get dark outside. To get lost between those islands was nothing we were willing to do :) Dinner was served around 7pm and afterwards I just laid on the upper deck and studied the skies with a full moon and stars - it was beautiful. I felt so tired. Lack of sleep was getting to me. So I just went and got my sleeping bag and decided to spend the night on the upper deck :) That was great! Sleeping under the stars, between those beautiful islands, on a rocking river boat - what else can a soul hope for?
Finally the correct bus arrived. After about an hour of driving we all new each other and there were lively discussions going on, there was about 15 people in the bus, great bunch of people. Next to me sat a guy doing his doctorate in physics, he was studying light and was explaining in great detail and in enough simple turns of what it means to study light and how the studies could evolve and change the world in the future. We also touched the subject of nano computers - really great talk :) He had a dream to start a company that would specialize in research and also deliver enhanced technological products at some point. He dreamt of a revolutionizing the world through light - what a great dream.
Once we arrived to Halong City I was guided to join another group and then yet another. On top of all this my new tour guide almost forgot me at the port, I caught in on the last moment, before he was to step on a boat and reminded of myself. I ended up being on a boat with a bunch of unhappy tourists, most of them being Asian and talking in a language I did not comprehend. I was sad to be separated from the first group :( But anyhoo, the environment made all the problems disappear :D
The boat we boarded was a 3 level river boat with cabins on the bottom level, dining area on the middle level and top level for open platform with beach chairs and benches. First we had lunch, this was right after leaving the harbour. Then we were simply cruising around in Halong Bay. Travel guide talks about Halong Bay as pure art that can not be described in words - that is exactly how it is. Locals say that the islands are dragons turned into stone and are there to protect the country from invaders - apparently a bit different than what the travel guide says :D There are more than 3000 small islands or huge cliffs/rocks rising out of green-blue waters - it is gorgeous. At some point there were many boat cruising by us but after a while we were all by ourselves between those silent high rocks sticking out of the water. The day was beautiful and there was slight breeze to make it all even more enjoyable. I found myself thinking: "so that is what paradise looks like". I closed my thoughts and just stared at the beauty around me. There was sun, the islands, water, slight breeze and the boat engine silently humming on the background - just absolute bliss.
After about 45 minutes we stopped at a Sung Sot cave. This cave was discovered just recently - 1993. By now it is all set and ready for tourists - all lit up and walkways prepared. Cave was impressive though :) After looking around a bit back to the boats we went.
First night was to be spent on the boat so it was stopped between some islands around 5pm. Then we got to take a ride on kayaks for a while. We kayaked through a cave and entered into what seemed like a big lake, but was really part of the sea but surrounded with rocks all around us - we were in the middle of an island with the kayak :D So time for a swim, there was a BUT though - there are jellyfish everywhere :( There are 2 types of them - the big ones and small ones with long tail type things. Big ones are not that dangerous as their stinging is very mild. The small ones are dangerous though - their sting hurts really bad and the rash stays for at least a week :( So I hesitated about jumping in the water. Our guide said that he'd look our for the jellys as they are always on top of the water and he'd let me know where can I move. So I just did a small circle around the kayaks. Oh the water was warm, really really warm, like a bath water. It was strange and unusual for me as it did not bring any relief from the heat.
We got back with the kayaks just in time as it was starting to get dark outside. To get lost between those islands was nothing we were willing to do :) Dinner was served around 7pm and afterwards I just laid on the upper deck and studied the skies with a full moon and stars - it was beautiful. I felt so tired. Lack of sleep was getting to me. So I just went and got my sleeping bag and decided to spend the night on the upper deck :) That was great! Sleeping under the stars, between those beautiful islands, on a rocking river boat - what else can a soul hope for?
Sunday, September 14, 2008
day 28 - second day in Hanoi - 13.09
Last night we had huuge drama at the hotel. So we come back from town at around 22:30, we get to the room and switch on the lights. I walk in first and as I pass the little hallway and get to the room it seems to me that something was moving on the far end on the wall. Walls and ceiling panels are white, well they were white long time ago I should say. Anyhoo, the moving object had run from behind my bed across the wall where a table with a mirror on it was standing. By that time we had both jumped on a bed and were holding shoes in our hand to kill the bastard if we'd see it again. I was sure it was a cockroach, but I was absolutely devastated, because it was huge what I saw moving on the wall.
So then brave Riina goes and moves the table and of course there is movement and it shoots across another wall that is shared with the bathroom and goes and hides behind the coffee table. Oh we were screaming like no other. And again, we could not believe how big the cockroach was - not even big but long. So we stood there for a while then tried to move the coffee table - nothing. We were already imagining how they have made nests in our bags and moved in with whole families there. So Riina takes the insect repellent and sprays all our bags and also the corners of the rooms where we thought the animal had escaped to. We sneak into the bathroom very carefully and inspect that - nothing. So we get back to the room and sit and wait. After a while we see something coming out from behind the coffee table - I see a head - it is a lizard! I'm relieved of course as lizards are quite harmless, i was so relieved that we did not have a cockroach the size of my palm walking up and down the room here :) But nonetheless - we were not happy to share our room with a lizard.
I managed to take some photos of the lizard and we headed downstairs to the reception with our evidence. There was nobody there who spoke any English, but they looked at the photos and giggled, then sent one guy with a stick up with us. It seemed so normal to them, like it would happen every day and that it should even be this way. So he came and poke around with his stick for a while - nothing moved, no lizards nothing, so he took off. We had no choice but to get back in the room and try to get to sleep. There were tiny lizards as well besides the bigger one - they were just walking about and doing their thing. We left one of the lights on so we could at least see them when we wake up at night covered in cold sweat because of the lizard nightmares. I ended up sleeping quite well, but Riina was monitoring them all night and did not get much sleep at all.
This morning we contemplated on moving out - but that seemed like too much hassle, besides we are leaving tomorrow early morning anyways. So we stayed.
During the day we did the walking tour in Hanoi that was suggested by Lonely Planet - it was nice, got to see quite many different faces of the city. One of the coolest places was house 102 on Pho Hang Bac. It was just this tiny hallway leading in, I could barely fit in the hallway since both my shoulders were touching the walls on each side. At first it seemed that we were had arrived in somebody's kitchen but we just proceeded going inwards and then we found what we were looking for. Locals downstairs waved us upstairs and there was a fully functional temple. One other narrow staircase led even higher - on the roof there was more of the temple. We were the only explorers there - it was really neat and peaceful and quiet and yet magnificent.
It is so darn warm in here though :( It is almost painful to walk on those busy streets during the day with all the exhaust and running engines right by you. When walking then we are looking for shade and even that is almost unbearable, being in the sun can be handled only for very small periods of time. To cool down we need to go somewhere inside where they have air conditioning - it is very hot here.
Before taking the walking tour we bought tickets to the water puppet show. Our show started at 18:30. As the travel guide explains the ancient art of water puppetry is originated with rice farmers who worked the flooded fields of the Red River Delta. This art form is at least 1000 years old. Puppets used are carved out of water resistant fig tree timber and colored with glossy vegetable based paint. The considerable skills required to operate the puppets were traditionally kept secret and passed only from father to son, never to daughters in fear that they would marry outside the village and spread the knowledge. Show was great, it lasted almost an hour and had separate musical show and everything.
In the evening we packed like crazy as Riina is leaving on the 14th and I needed to put together my beach bag for 4 days :D
So then brave Riina goes and moves the table and of course there is movement and it shoots across another wall that is shared with the bathroom and goes and hides behind the coffee table. Oh we were screaming like no other. And again, we could not believe how big the cockroach was - not even big but long. So we stood there for a while then tried to move the coffee table - nothing. We were already imagining how they have made nests in our bags and moved in with whole families there. So Riina takes the insect repellent and sprays all our bags and also the corners of the rooms where we thought the animal had escaped to. We sneak into the bathroom very carefully and inspect that - nothing. So we get back to the room and sit and wait. After a while we see something coming out from behind the coffee table - I see a head - it is a lizard! I'm relieved of course as lizards are quite harmless, i was so relieved that we did not have a cockroach the size of my palm walking up and down the room here :) But nonetheless - we were not happy to share our room with a lizard.
I managed to take some photos of the lizard and we headed downstairs to the reception with our evidence. There was nobody there who spoke any English, but they looked at the photos and giggled, then sent one guy with a stick up with us. It seemed so normal to them, like it would happen every day and that it should even be this way. So he came and poke around with his stick for a while - nothing moved, no lizards nothing, so he took off. We had no choice but to get back in the room and try to get to sleep. There were tiny lizards as well besides the bigger one - they were just walking about and doing their thing. We left one of the lights on so we could at least see them when we wake up at night covered in cold sweat because of the lizard nightmares. I ended up sleeping quite well, but Riina was monitoring them all night and did not get much sleep at all.
This morning we contemplated on moving out - but that seemed like too much hassle, besides we are leaving tomorrow early morning anyways. So we stayed.
During the day we did the walking tour in Hanoi that was suggested by Lonely Planet - it was nice, got to see quite many different faces of the city. One of the coolest places was house 102 on Pho Hang Bac. It was just this tiny hallway leading in, I could barely fit in the hallway since both my shoulders were touching the walls on each side. At first it seemed that we were had arrived in somebody's kitchen but we just proceeded going inwards and then we found what we were looking for. Locals downstairs waved us upstairs and there was a fully functional temple. One other narrow staircase led even higher - on the roof there was more of the temple. We were the only explorers there - it was really neat and peaceful and quiet and yet magnificent.
It is so darn warm in here though :( It is almost painful to walk on those busy streets during the day with all the exhaust and running engines right by you. When walking then we are looking for shade and even that is almost unbearable, being in the sun can be handled only for very small periods of time. To cool down we need to go somewhere inside where they have air conditioning - it is very hot here.
Before taking the walking tour we bought tickets to the water puppet show. Our show started at 18:30. As the travel guide explains the ancient art of water puppetry is originated with rice farmers who worked the flooded fields of the Red River Delta. This art form is at least 1000 years old. Puppets used are carved out of water resistant fig tree timber and colored with glossy vegetable based paint. The considerable skills required to operate the puppets were traditionally kept secret and passed only from father to son, never to daughters in fear that they would marry outside the village and spread the knowledge. Show was great, it lasted almost an hour and had separate musical show and everything.
In the evening we packed like crazy as Riina is leaving on the 14th and I needed to put together my beach bag for 4 days :D
Friday, September 12, 2008
day 27 - first day in Hanoi - 12.09
Train from Lao Cai arrived at 5:45 instead of 5:00 as advertised - this is the first time when a transportation is late. Glad that we didn't have to catch a plane or something this time. Instead we made our way to a hotel nearby that we had picked out in advance, before we went to Sapa. The guy at the reception did not speak any English, but luckily he checked us right in and we agreed the price for 2 nights - no extra charge for early check-in as far as we could foresee by the numbers he was writing down.
Since neither of us got any sleep at the train, we slept for 3 hours and then went to town. Our first task for the day was to find Hong Kong Airlines office so we could change Riinas plain ticket since the flight time was changed. That task was easy as the ticketing office was quite close to our hotel. Next we ate as we were both starving and then another task was to find a tour for me for 14th that would head south.
I will travel south on my own on the 14th as Riina will be flying home the same morning. Finding the right tour was much more complicated than I would have thought - there are travel agencies everywhere and the prices vary for a 3 day tour from 45 to 220 USD. So try to catch one that seems suitable and where they actually have a service and decent rooms and so on. I finally settled for one medium priced one and arranged an extra day on Cat Ba island. So the plan now is:
13.09 - will spend the day in Hanoi, just looking around the town - last day together with Riina
14.09 - will head south with a tour to Halong Bay for 4 days, first day covers Sung Sot cave, Titov island and kayaking - sleeping at a boat somewhere on the sea between the islands :)
15.09 - second tour day covers Thien Long cave, some boating on canals and wild Turtle island - sleeping in a hotel on Cat Ba island
16.09 - third tour day I will be on my own on Cat Ba island (please make it so that there are pretty beaches there :D)
17.09 - last, fourth tour day we will be taken back to the coast and others will head back to Hanoi, but I will try to catch a bus from Halong City to Haiphong and will try to stay a day in Haiphong.
Most likely I won't bring my computer to the tour so I won't be posting for a while, but I'm not sure yet, just giving an early warning so you will not worry. I will definitely have my phone with me so if something urgent comes up I can always SMS to family (if there is network coverage of course). So but basically don't worry and talk to you again after the 17th :)
Lots of hugs to all of you!
Since neither of us got any sleep at the train, we slept for 3 hours and then went to town. Our first task for the day was to find Hong Kong Airlines office so we could change Riinas plain ticket since the flight time was changed. That task was easy as the ticketing office was quite close to our hotel. Next we ate as we were both starving and then another task was to find a tour for me for 14th that would head south.
I will travel south on my own on the 14th as Riina will be flying home the same morning. Finding the right tour was much more complicated than I would have thought - there are travel agencies everywhere and the prices vary for a 3 day tour from 45 to 220 USD. So try to catch one that seems suitable and where they actually have a service and decent rooms and so on. I finally settled for one medium priced one and arranged an extra day on Cat Ba island. So the plan now is:
13.09 - will spend the day in Hanoi, just looking around the town - last day together with Riina
14.09 - will head south with a tour to Halong Bay for 4 days, first day covers Sung Sot cave, Titov island and kayaking - sleeping at a boat somewhere on the sea between the islands :)
15.09 - second tour day covers Thien Long cave, some boating on canals and wild Turtle island - sleeping in a hotel on Cat Ba island
16.09 - third tour day I will be on my own on Cat Ba island (please make it so that there are pretty beaches there :D)
17.09 - last, fourth tour day we will be taken back to the coast and others will head back to Hanoi, but I will try to catch a bus from Halong City to Haiphong and will try to stay a day in Haiphong.
Most likely I won't bring my computer to the tour so I won't be posting for a while, but I'm not sure yet, just giving an early warning so you will not worry. I will definitely have my phone with me so if something urgent comes up I can always SMS to family (if there is network coverage of course). So but basically don't worry and talk to you again after the 17th :)
Lots of hugs to all of you!
day 26 - last, fourth day in sapa - 11.09
Nothing exciting happened on our last day in Sapa (well except the ride back to the train station in Lao Cai, but I'll get to that a bit later). In the morning we tried to sleep in as much as possible, but that did not work due to the heavy traffic in front of the hotel that always comes with lots of honking and also the construction across the road started at 8 in the morning :( But either way we needed to pack yet again so we just started with that. The usual routine of last sweet shower, left the bags at the hotel and then to the town. Breakfast was nice again - food is really good here in Vietnam.
Sapa is quite small so it took only a bit of time to make a trip around the town. The local seller ladies were driving us absolutely crazy with their high voices screaming from across the street already "buy from meee". We did everything to ignore them and to get away from them as early as possible and they still managed to get to us, at some point we basically yelled like a choir "NO" - I felt a bit guilty after that, but they were really pushing our limits.
About the city - well, here are lots of buildings that resemble Russian times with big yellow stars on a red background and the star figures. Apparently every town in Vietnam has a Lenin street or square :) I took some pictures of the houses and signs as well :) And oh it was a warm day - it was warm even in Sapa :(
Our minivan to the train station left at 5, it was about an hour ride to Lao Cai where the train would depart from. As Sapa is up in the mountains then the ride was mostly downwards - after about 20 minutes of driving the van was roasting, or I should say the brakes were. Considering the driving that took place and the condition of the van, I was surprised that it lasted even that long without catching fire or something :) Then the driver was breaking with the gear for a bit, but after 2 minutes was hitting the gas again like everything is fine - and we were on windy mountain roads heading down on more than 10% hills! I'd say it was a bit scary, but we made it just fine. And of course it got warmer every minute we got lower :(, the heat really hit us once in Lao Cai, even though it was evening already.
Once at the train station we noticed that the hostel had charged us 30% more for the tickets than the real price was :( Oh well, they need to earn their living some way as well I guess. We got hard sleeper tickets. Train ride was ok, but neither of us got much sleep for some reason.
Sapa is quite small so it took only a bit of time to make a trip around the town. The local seller ladies were driving us absolutely crazy with their high voices screaming from across the street already "buy from meee". We did everything to ignore them and to get away from them as early as possible and they still managed to get to us, at some point we basically yelled like a choir "NO" - I felt a bit guilty after that, but they were really pushing our limits.
About the city - well, here are lots of buildings that resemble Russian times with big yellow stars on a red background and the star figures. Apparently every town in Vietnam has a Lenin street or square :) I took some pictures of the houses and signs as well :) And oh it was a warm day - it was warm even in Sapa :(
Our minivan to the train station left at 5, it was about an hour ride to Lao Cai where the train would depart from. As Sapa is up in the mountains then the ride was mostly downwards - after about 20 minutes of driving the van was roasting, or I should say the brakes were. Considering the driving that took place and the condition of the van, I was surprised that it lasted even that long without catching fire or something :) Then the driver was breaking with the gear for a bit, but after 2 minutes was hitting the gas again like everything is fine - and we were on windy mountain roads heading down on more than 10% hills! I'd say it was a bit scary, but we made it just fine. And of course it got warmer every minute we got lower :(, the heat really hit us once in Lao Cai, even though it was evening already.
Once at the train station we noticed that the hostel had charged us 30% more for the tickets than the real price was :( Oh well, they need to earn their living some way as well I guess. We got hard sleeper tickets. Train ride was ok, but neither of us got much sleep for some reason.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
day 25 - third day in sapa - 10.09
By looking at the tours we picked a tour that goes north this time. It was a one day tour again, but this time we got to go by motorcycles :) Of course we were sitting on the back seat and had drivers - but cool nonetheless! We visited Ma Tra and Ta Phin villages where Red Dzao live. Also we took a little detour into a cave, apparently it was a very long one but as it was dark in there we did not go too far. As usual we stopped at some local homes, saw how they made their fabric and how they beat the rice on the fields. Ride back to Sapa was about 25 minutes.
Weather was beautiful, sunny, a bit too beautiful so we both got sun burnt a bit. I got a nasty pocket figure burnt right on my chest :-S , it will not be easy to tan this one even :(
In the morning we bought our train tickets to go back to Hanoi tomorrow night (train departs at 8:15 in the evening of 11th of September) and we will arrive to Hanoi early morning on the 12th. Then we have 2 days to look around in Hanoi. On the 14th early morning Riina will fly back home via Hong Kong and I will try to head south to Halong Bay to relax on the boat by the ocean for few days :)
After the tour today we were both exhausted, so we took a 2,5h nap :) showered and now we are looking around in Sapa. Will find a place for dinner and will indulge one more night in this scenic mountain village of Sapa. Tomorrow will try to sleep in, pack our bags again, look around in town and head over to the train station in the evening.
Weather was beautiful, sunny, a bit too beautiful so we both got sun burnt a bit. I got a nasty pocket figure burnt right on my chest :-S , it will not be easy to tan this one even :(
In the morning we bought our train tickets to go back to Hanoi tomorrow night (train departs at 8:15 in the evening of 11th of September) and we will arrive to Hanoi early morning on the 12th. Then we have 2 days to look around in Hanoi. On the 14th early morning Riina will fly back home via Hong Kong and I will try to head south to Halong Bay to relax on the boat by the ocean for few days :)
After the tour today we were both exhausted, so we took a 2,5h nap :) showered and now we are looking around in Sapa. Will find a place for dinner and will indulge one more night in this scenic mountain village of Sapa. Tomorrow will try to sleep in, pack our bags again, look around in town and head over to the train station in the evening.
day 24 - second day in sapa - 09.09
For today we arranged ourselves a half day private tour with a jeep :) Yeah, check the pics for the jeep - you'll get a good laugh ;) As the tour started at 1:30 in the afternoon then we got to sleep in, we slept till 10:30 - oh that was heavenly. Ate late breakfast at 11:30 and then to the tour. Breakfast by the way consisted of white bread loaf that you would cut in half in the middle and fill with an omelet and sauteed mushroom-onion-tomato mixture, it was very delicious.
About our tour - we got a jeep with the driver and we had planned to visit Tram Ton pass and the Silver Waterfall. We were taken to the pass first, is 15km from Sapa and at an altitude of 1900 meter this is the highest mountain pass in Vietnam. There was quite heavy tourist traffic, but we got to enjoy our 5 minutes of peace in there - it was fabulous, we just stared at the view without speaking for a while.
On the way back we stopped at the waterfall named Thac Bac or Silver Waterfall, it is 5km from Sapa. Travel guide knows to say the waterfall is 100m in height. There was an admission fee to make it up at the bridge - we did not even hesitate, it looked too good to miss this one. We took about 100 too many pictures there :) despite the drizzling rain that haunted us throughout our way up and also on coming down. At the bridge we met a Polish guy who was very happy about meeting people close to where he is from :D Then we were taken back to town - end of our fancy private tour :)
Hostel we are staying at has also a laundry service. So we gave some of our clothes in to be washed last night, they promised to get them back to us in the morning. When I went to get it this morning they said that half an hour more and then it will be ready - of course half an hour later there was no laundry. Then they promised in the afternoon. Once we got back from the tour I asked again if our laundry was ready - another "in half an hour" came :) Finally in the evening we got our laundry back. We were already certain that they must have lost it or something.
In the evening we enjoyed some shopping in downtown of Sapa and chose a nice restaurant for dinner. As the restaurant had nice and fast wireless that was also free then we took our time there. First we ordered two appetisers - spring rolls and tofu in tomato sauce. Spring rolls are one of the most popular dishes in Vietnam, they are made of very thin rice paper and filled with various meat or vegetable fillings and fried to be crisp and delicious. Tofu is another speciality around here. After uploading and managing the piled up hundreds of photos we ordered our main meal - tuna salad and grilled beef marinated in herbs, that came with steamed white rice. I have to say that they definitely know how to cook here - it was very good. By that time we had ordered a bottle of local wine as well. After another half an hour or so we each got a desert and then some cocktails :D Our bill ended up being 655 000 Vietnamese dong :) Either way it was all delicious and we enjoyed the nice dinner.
Before going to the room we explored the upper deck of our hostel - nice view indeed :) We even saw couple of stars and the moon was out. Life is beautiful, almost perfect ;)
About our tour - we got a jeep with the driver and we had planned to visit Tram Ton pass and the Silver Waterfall. We were taken to the pass first, is 15km from Sapa and at an altitude of 1900 meter this is the highest mountain pass in Vietnam. There was quite heavy tourist traffic, but we got to enjoy our 5 minutes of peace in there - it was fabulous, we just stared at the view without speaking for a while.
On the way back we stopped at the waterfall named Thac Bac or Silver Waterfall, it is 5km from Sapa. Travel guide knows to say the waterfall is 100m in height. There was an admission fee to make it up at the bridge - we did not even hesitate, it looked too good to miss this one. We took about 100 too many pictures there :) despite the drizzling rain that haunted us throughout our way up and also on coming down. At the bridge we met a Polish guy who was very happy about meeting people close to where he is from :D Then we were taken back to town - end of our fancy private tour :)
Hostel we are staying at has also a laundry service. So we gave some of our clothes in to be washed last night, they promised to get them back to us in the morning. When I went to get it this morning they said that half an hour more and then it will be ready - of course half an hour later there was no laundry. Then they promised in the afternoon. Once we got back from the tour I asked again if our laundry was ready - another "in half an hour" came :) Finally in the evening we got our laundry back. We were already certain that they must have lost it or something.
In the evening we enjoyed some shopping in downtown of Sapa and chose a nice restaurant for dinner. As the restaurant had nice and fast wireless that was also free then we took our time there. First we ordered two appetisers - spring rolls and tofu in tomato sauce. Spring rolls are one of the most popular dishes in Vietnam, they are made of very thin rice paper and filled with various meat or vegetable fillings and fried to be crisp and delicious. Tofu is another speciality around here. After uploading and managing the piled up hundreds of photos we ordered our main meal - tuna salad and grilled beef marinated in herbs, that came with steamed white rice. I have to say that they definitely know how to cook here - it was very good. By that time we had ordered a bottle of local wine as well. After another half an hour or so we each got a desert and then some cocktails :D Our bill ended up being 655 000 Vietnamese dong :) Either way it was all delicious and we enjoyed the nice dinner.
Before going to the room we explored the upper deck of our hostel - nice view indeed :) We even saw couple of stars and the moon was out. Life is beautiful, almost perfect ;)
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